New sandwich shops in Sydney that are anything but outdated

On paper, sandwiches do not arouse awe – visions of soft salad sangas and Vegemite and cheese in school lunches can immediately come to mind. But push those thoughts aside: Sydney is in the midst of a sandwich renaissance. Last year, we scored heavy-hitters including Fabbrica and Small’s Deli, and over the last few months, hits have kept coming. These sanga shops prove that bread and fillings can be creative, smart and worth crossing suburbs. From a Redfern novice where the attention to detail reigns, to a hole in the wall of a highway that makes “classic, non-basic” footage and a Surry Hills store that collides kitchens with delicious effect, here are four new songs shops to strike.

Good Ways Deli, Redfern
This corner café, delicatessen and bakery moves on to Australia (in a broad sense), drawing on bakeries, school canteens and Country Women’s Association recipes to inform about its sandwiches and treats. It’s about using native ingredients and items from top producers to realize its five-song-strong menu.

The kangaroo mortadella has proven to be a hit: the cold cuts – from Marrickville’s Whole Beast Butchery – are offset by garlic, “hot” butter (butter mixed with onion, white soy and lemon juice), fermented chili and broad-leaved arugula. And the superlative chicken sandwich is a crisp dream: Poached chook and mayo are textured with celery, walnuts and apple. In addition, everything is made on homemade bread. Co-owner and chef Jordan McKenzie’s baking skills are also on display with old-school delicacies such as Vegemite-and-cheese rolls (made with Maffra-ripened cheddar), Anzac biscuits and lamingtons.

And while native ingredients are used throughout, McKenzie and co-owner Tom Pye are quick to clarify that it’s never tokenistic. “We want to make sure we don’t just putter [native ingredients] there because it sounds good but [because] there is a purpose – and because it tastes good, ”McKenzie said Broadsheet in May.

Kosta’s Takeaway, Rockdale
The motto of Kosta’s – a hole-in-the-wall canteen-style shop in front of a smash-repair shop – is “classic, not basic”. The creativity of its chef-led team is guided between two slices of bread – whether it’s a panini, a schiacciata or an olive oil bun.

A trio of meats – ham, sopressa and LP’s mortadella – are topped with Super Deli panini along with marinated peppers and eggplant, spinach, graviera (a solid Greek cheese), fennel butter and salsa verde. The salad song comes on a crispy focaccia-style slice filled with a thoughtful mix of fresh vegetables, including the obligatory beetroot. There are often rotating specialties with cuts from Whole Beast Butchery, and you can spice up your meal with extra cold cuts, homemade relish, pickles and fermenters or a potato mussel. Recent offerings have included a really delicious “chicken moussaka” sanga and a dry-aged tenderloin sandwich with béarnaise sauce. And to think that it all came about because of an oversaturation of eggs.

“Everyone loves a good sandwich, and I just think everyone was caught going out for eggs. People tried to recreate eggs so many times – I do not know. It got exhausting. And running cafes is very hard, man. “They are hard work,” said co-owner Benjamin Terkalas Broadsheet in October.

“We have a lot more fun and are just as creative and still do good things, but with sandwiches. The team has really enjoyed that.”

Theo’s Deli, Surry Hills
Theo’s Deli is anything but white bread. Sandwiches star in this new joint from the team behind Tokki in Surry Hills and the exclusive Barangaroo eatery Marble – and the cultural mix that happens at these eateries is also evident in Theo’s seven signature sandwiches.

Take HEC (ham, eggs and cheese), a tag on the bacon-and-egg roll. But it is not just your basic bacon-and-egg roll. It is made with smoked ham hock, a fried egg, chips, malt-vinegar-mayo and a mustard jam-jam. And the tuna melt has a touch of wasabi in its cheesy mayo mix for a bit of a kick.

“There’s nowhere to hide with sandwiches,” says owner David Bae Broadsheet. “You have to get the taste and balance right.”

Frank’s Deli, Waverley
The great delicacies of New York – think Katz’s Delicatessen, Russ & Daughters and Frankel’s – have inspired Frank’s Deli, which is rooted in the owners’ Polish heritage. And then the menu is heavy on sandwiches with sliced ​​cheese, pickles and thick pieces of meat. The star of the show so far is Breakfast Sammy, filled with a thick slice of LP’s breast pastrami, eggs, cheese and a sauce made with paprika, horseradish, fermented pickle and dill.

A trio of cheeses – Maffra cheddar, provolone and pecorino – fill 3 Cheese Melt, a nice bid for the humble cheese toasty, and there is a Reuben made with stains. Other options include pork and meatballs on ciabatta, a schnitty served on a milk bun and a vegan toastie stuffed with miso and rosemary braised mushrooms, cashew cream cheese and pesto.

“We take our family’s traditions and give them to the public to try,” co-owner Sammy Jakubiak said Broadsheet in October. “We want to serve the classics and create something that can hold the test of time.”

Still hungry? Here is Broadsheets guide to Sydney’s best sandwich.

Additional reporting by Dan Cunningham, Ariela Bard and Emma Breislin.

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